31
Line the bottom of both trays by cutting some card (of predetermined thickness) and your lining material (in this case single-ply Bristol and Suedel respectively). Cut the card larger than the tray’s interior base. Glue it up and pitch it onto your lining material whose grain runs top to bottom. I use an inch-wide straight edge to cut the overlap of the Suedel that will cover the tray edge and turn in on the bottom of the tray.
32
Trim the other edges of your lining material to the card edge, place inside the tray and mark the height and width.
33
Transfer the excess width measurement to your cut edge with a set of dividers and trim it. Pitch it in dry and check your cut. Remember that you have two folds of cloth at your tray edges. With thicker cloth you may have to cut out extra thickness in base material.
34
Glue up and pitch in. Work it down and around the exposed edge with a folder and onto the bottom side of the tray while it’s supported.
35
If you’re adding pads to your interior tray (and you have to determine this before you get this far – see 03), cut the appropriate card with the grain direction running perpendicular to the wall grain. Cut out the head and tail pads at more than twice the height and a little more than the width, and the foredge wall at a little more than once it’s height and length. Cover with the appropriate material and turn the edge – filling in completely in the rear.
36
Split the upper and lower wall pad in half. Cut the three to size and leave room at the spine edge of the head and tail pads for the ‘fourth wall’. Invert and nest your dry trays and mark two boards for your front and back boards. Add a square that is appropriate to your boards’ thickness and taste. There’s nothing more clumsy than a well-executed box with too large or too small squares.
